I have decided to write some of my reflections of each country that we travel through so I can remember later on. Eygpt is very advanced and thrives on tourism. This is both good for the average tourist and annoying as everyone tries to rip you off all the time. It was worse here than other places I have travelled, but I tried to not let it really affect my experience. Things I will remember about my time in Eygpt are the long paved roads through the sandy desert, seemingly few people except trucks and buses passing by, every single one of them honking and beeping every time they pass. The Red Sea Mountains were incredible, despite the 60km climb, Safaga and the Red Sea coast was worth the long bike ride there. The pyramids, The Valley of the Kings and Abu Simble were breathtaking, hard to really contemplate the amount of work that went into them. The friendly Eygptian people that often only know the word “Welcome” which I think is a pretty good word to know. I loved the horse carriages in Luxor and Aswan and the Turkish coffee that I would often drink along the way.
My confidence has been exponentially increased after riding Eygpt, putting my fears at bay. Most importantly realizing that in fact everything I have done in my life up until this point has prepared me for this trip. The years of camping, discomfort, travel, the ability to be flexible and challenge myself everyday have proven already in the last ten days to be pivotal points to help me through this. My body has been exceptional, injury free and SADDLE SORE free! The unknown ahead excites me and I can hardly believe than only ten days have gone by. The group has bonded over long days in the saddle, early mornings, and learning the ins and outs of packing day in and day out and finding a groove that will last 120 days.
For me, arriving in camp to a hot drink and soup made for me, and no one but myself to set up and get sorted out has been a refreshing change after years of guiding. The day to day is like clockwork for me, and I sit in wonder of how some are coping having only set up a tent for their first time on this trip! Our ability to stay connected in some of the most remote parts of the world still amazes me and makes me feel like the world only continues to get smaller and smaller.
Egypt is now a memory with Sudan next on the list.
Friday, January 29, 2010
Aswan Egypt
Aswan is in the book of “1000 places to see before you die” and it clearly is a place to see. It was even more impressive after days and days of biking through the dry, sandy (not much to see) desert. Arriving in Aswan is a small piece of heaven in a very arid landscape. The Nile is beautiful here and the Feluccas boats are in excess. It was a very good end to our time in Egypt.
We had some time to buy groceries and get our final bags packed for our trip on the 24 hour ferry down Lake Nasser into Sudan. A couple of us decided to go to the world famous “Movenpick” hotel on Elephantine Island for dinner. For $30 us we had probably the most amazing meal I have ever eaten in my life. The only comparison being the Banff Springs Hotel brunch. We had a little boat ride back to the other side and went back to our tents at the Football stadium. Not really a day off as we biked 118km in the morning and had a police escort through the town. But it is interesting how the days that are under 130km feel like short riding days now. We are all getting stronger. Getting to know each other better and generally falling into a routine, that I feel like I could keep doing long after the trip is over. I feel stronger than ever and everyday just so lucky to know where I am and what I am doing.
We had to cross the Aswan Dam to get to the Sudanese Ferry. This is somewhat similar to the Hoover dam except access is extremely limited and generally bikes are NEVER allowed to cross this landmark. Since there are so many of us, they got special permission for us to be able to cross on our bikes. Such a cool experience. Pictures are not allowed so everyone will only remember that crossing in our minds, 70 riders filled up the road across almost the entire dam.
We had some time to buy groceries and get our final bags packed for our trip on the 24 hour ferry down Lake Nasser into Sudan. A couple of us decided to go to the world famous “Movenpick” hotel on Elephantine Island for dinner. For $30 us we had probably the most amazing meal I have ever eaten in my life. The only comparison being the Banff Springs Hotel brunch. We had a little boat ride back to the other side and went back to our tents at the Football stadium. Not really a day off as we biked 118km in the morning and had a police escort through the town. But it is interesting how the days that are under 130km feel like short riding days now. We are all getting stronger. Getting to know each other better and generally falling into a routine, that I feel like I could keep doing long after the trip is over. I feel stronger than ever and everyday just so lucky to know where I am and what I am doing.
We had to cross the Aswan Dam to get to the Sudanese Ferry. This is somewhat similar to the Hoover dam except access is extremely limited and generally bikes are NEVER allowed to cross this landmark. Since there are so many of us, they got special permission for us to be able to cross on our bikes. Such a cool experience. Pictures are not allowed so everyone will only remember that crossing in our minds, 70 riders filled up the road across almost the entire dam.
Thursday, January 21, 2010
Luxor
Today we arrived in Luxor. Yesterday was another very difficult day. We had a 60km climb up the Red Sea Mountain pass with strong headwinds… the hill just seemed to keep going and going. I rode with a couple of the Eygptian racers for awhile which was really great and we discovered one of them and myself do the same work with youth at risk. At 98km got my first flat tire, and if you know my tires, this was epic. Luckily I had linked up with another rider and he stayed and helped out. I sliced my finger, was bleeding all over the tire and my bike blew down into the sand. It did not make for a good experience. I rode the last 40km with my tire not seated properly tenderly riding as to not have another flat. 138km felt terrible, was the 5th last rider into camp, with 13 riders on the truck. So it felt good to still be riding with so many people having quit but it also made for a lonely road. Paul the tour director said this year has been a very difficult tour so far due to the fact that the winds have been atrocious. This last six days has been very telling of how difficult this trip is really going to be. I am great so far, have challenged myself as much as I possibly could everyday however there are a lot of people with injuries already. I have a bit of GI stuff going on already and a lot of mosquito bites, but other than that I feel very good. I am happy with how my body is treating me.
On the way into Luxor along in the Nile valley, the green trees and flowers were refreshing after miles and miles of desert sand. The children gave me my first taste of some of the challenges that we will come across along the way . I was the last rider today, riding alone because I had issues with my bike. The kids along the way had already seen a tonne of bikers come by, they pelted me with rocks, at one point a group of young teenage boys rode up and were veering into me and trying to steal stuff off of my bike. One kid whipped me with a stick as I came by and so many kids were running at me. I started to veer into traffic more as I approached groups of kids, because I was more fearful of the kids than the vehicles. Oh Ethiopia will be very very interesting.
Take care, more adventures to come, amazing to think we have almost finished one country of 10… I will miss Eygpt. Sudan will have its own challenges, I am sure.
The Red Sea (Safaga)
We got a half day off today, that is if you could ride the 90km quickly before the town and then take advantage of the day. I rode fast, I wasn’t feeling great this morning but quickly got into a good pace, reached the lunch truck by 9:30 am and was starving. I ate three sandwiches and as I rode away from the lunch stop I ate a powerbar. I feel hungry all the time and the more riding we do, I think it will get worse. I think all said and done I ate five meals today…. And I think I am still dropping weight. My bum was glad for a half day off, and it seems to already be on the mend. Hopefully it is getting good and calloused at this point. This is half the battle on bike trips especially 96 days of riding through intense conditions. We heard that the rainstorm we had the other night (read Eygpt update) was the first rain that that part of the desert had had in four years!!! Go figure, we were there for it, and let me tell you, I have never been in rain coming down that hard before. Pretty amazing! Some of the roads were washed out as a result… which made for some negotiating and we got stopped at a police stop. Today we arrived in Safaga, a beautiful little town on the Red Sea, wish I had more time here to do some diving. The two hotels filled up fast with riders eager to stop “Roughing it” after our four nights in tents. It made me chuckle to see everyone so excited to shower, and have rooms. I of course am “roughing it” in my tent on the beach along side the red sea, amazing camping, no way would I be in a room! Tomorrow we have another long day, 138 km up and over the Red Sea Mountains, towards the Nile. We will then begin to follow the Nile south, to Luxor.
Be sure to follow the Tour D’Afrique blog (link on this page) the communications directors are doing an amazing job keeping it updated on our journey and it will probably get updated more than I am able to keep updating my blog. Feel free to send comments and emails, it is nice to hear from everyone! I am truly loving this trip so far. What an amazing opportunity. There are some amazing riders here, most much much faster than me, but I push myself to my limit everyday and try my best. Today, the internet proved more important than my bike time, so we stopped at an internet cafĂ© for an hour and that got logged into my race results for the day.J
Be sure to follow the Tour D’Afrique blog (link on this page) the communications directors are doing an amazing job keeping it updated on our journey and it will probably get updated more than I am able to keep updating my blog. Feel free to send comments and emails, it is nice to hear from everyone! I am truly loving this trip so far. What an amazing opportunity. There are some amazing riders here, most much much faster than me, but I push myself to my limit everyday and try my best. Today, the internet proved more important than my bike time, so we stopped at an internet cafĂ© for an hour and that got logged into my race results for the day.J
Eygpt Update
Day Three of riding, finally getting a chance to sit down in the windy windy desert to type an update. The last few days have been a whirlwind. Still hard to believe at times I am riding my bike across Africa. The magnitude of the trip and difficulty of this lifestyle are starting to wear on people, but people are trying to stay in high spirits. The rides to start with have been really long, considering most of us are from cold climates and the general consensus is that a lot of people haven’t been on their bikes a whole lot in the last little bit.
Our ride distances for this first section are : Day 1- 134km Day 2- 168km Day 3- 140km Day 4- 90 km Day 5- 139km Day 6- 95km… Then our first rest day in Luxor.
Yesterday really tested everyone, and I unfortunatly lost my EFI status on Day 2…. The distance was very easily accomplished had the weather worked with us a bit. From early on in the day we got terrible, terrible headwinds coming off the Red Sea. They continued up until our lunch stop at 71km, where people were pretty tired. The afternoon proved to be the most difficult riding in my life up until this point, with winds upwards of 40km/hr at points. I wasn’t quite fast enough to join some of the pelotons so I found myself biking alone a long ways until finally met up with Steve (South African) and Sam (American) and we started to help each other out. It was a long long way to the “Refresh stop” where we were all out of water. That rest stop (a jug and Mohammed sitting on the side of the highway was like an oasis in the stark Eygptian desert)… The next 25 km (for me) and 28 km for Sam and Steve turned out to be very very long. At about 155km I started to get really tired, as this happened, my bike control got worse and worse, until I veered a little in the sand and took an epic wipe out, going down hard and fast almost taking Sam out with me. I hit my head and elbow really hard, but had a lot of adrenaline no time to examine the injuries, we knew we had to pick up the pace or we would miss the 5:30 (dark) cut off for the day. At this point my body hurt bad and I could think of nothing more than getting off my bike. At 5:45 we saw the van coming down the highway on the other side, we decided if we booked it, we might make it, it was everyone for themselves at this point. At 5:55 with 3km left to camp the van caught up to me and I was told to get in. You can imagine this was not a pleasant ride for the riders that had been picked up a ways back as I was very upset, knowing that I could have easily made it the last 3km to camp. We reached Sam with 1 km left and he was told if he went fast he could ride, by this point Steve had already made it. A storm blew in quickly afterwards and camp was overwhelmed with wind and torrential downpouring rain. About 20 minutes later I heard Paul (tour director) say that the final riders were just riding in!!! I was so upset, people that were 20 minutes behind me were able to ride in, and I lost EFI for 3km. It was a bad day.
Today was much much better with mainly tailwinds and only a portion of the ways headwinds. People’s knees and bums are suffering at this point. Saddle sores are really not fun. Mine are definitely not as bad as some but I feel like the next few days will be very painful until I get used to this.
Egypt has been amazing so far with miles and miles of desert and long open (paved!) roads… Our 38km convoy out of Cairo was crazy, organized chaos, which I never would have attempted without a police escort. It is crazy to think of how much time and riding are left on this trip. There are so many riders on this trip I don’t even know everyone’s names yet. As in all groups, little cliques have formed and people kinda stay with the people they know. Fair enough. I am just so happy that someone else makes me a hot drink and it is ready when I get into camp!
Wednesday, January 13, 2010
Arrived Safely in Cairo
No luggage, but I am safely in Cairo with my bike...Thought about the hours and hours of weighing my luggage and trying to get the most important things, only to arrive with nothing... I can only laugh at this point and try to think about the things I can trade for space in my empty locker...:( I guess it would make for a very very interesting journey to Capetown, me and my bike, with no bike shorts.. Ha Ha Ha... And so the adventure begins... :(
A couple of the other guys had their bikes fall off the top of the taxi roof rack on the highway so I guess everything is relative...
A couple of the other guys had their bikes fall off the top of the taxi roof rack on the highway so I guess everything is relative...
Monday, January 11, 2010
CBC Radio Interview
If you missed the CBC Radio Interview the other day, here is the link.
http://www.facebook.com/l.php?u=http%253A%252F%252Fpodcast.cbc.ca%252Fmp3%252Fbcontheisland_20100107_25425.mp3&h=5e80b54b9d3fe55e60257a42f9e6b152&ref=mf
http://www.facebook.com/l.php?u=http%253A%252F%252Fpodcast.cbc.ca%252Fmp3%252Fbcontheisland_20100107_25425.mp3&h=5e80b54b9d3fe55e60257a42f9e6b152&ref=mf
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