Reflections On Ethiopia

As we enter our final three days of riding in Ethiopia I have definitely spent some time reflecting on the l time that we have spent here, which will be the longest time that we will spend in any one country on our tour across Africa (23 days total). Ethiopia was a test both physically and mentally and some days it was more a test of patience than anything else. Ethiopia is one of the poorest countries in the world and one of the most populated. With 75 million people in this tiny country, there seems to be people everywhere. This was evident on a daily basis as it was a rare time to stop along the side of the road and within minutes be surrounded by locals of all ages. Riding in pairs became necessary for the ability to deal with a flat tire or to take a pee stop without having your bike taken or stuff stolen from it. Lunch stops and campsites became a well monitored event as hundreds of villagers from nearby would stand around the thin string line put up watching our every detailed move. I imagine this is as close as I will ever feel to being a star in Hollywood being followed by the paparazzi. It is an overwhelming and claustrophobic feeling when you are always being watched. I think if I could describe Ethiopia in one word “claustrophobic” would be that word. It was amazing how the thin string line actually tended to keep the locals out, and the bizarre feeling of both being “inside” the line and the local people (in there own country) observing us from “outside” the line. Occasionally one of the locals would break through the line, only to be whipped or hit by whom ever was being paid to be security at the time. Only a few things were ever stolen from camp as people are on the top of their game at this point for monitoring our stuff. I think we can all say pretty surely that we are glad Ethiopia is coming to a close. I am ashamed to say that some days my empathy and compassion were tested by anger and frustration with the actions of locals. Stone throwing, shouting of “you you you” “give me money” “give me water” “ Ferengi (foreigner)” throwing dirt, whipping riders with sticks, and spitting on riders were a constant battle. Everything I have learned in my life has come in handy and been important to help me get through this country, even my military training was put to the test, observing the level of threat at all times from the hundreds of children and adults along side the road, checking for weapons and deciding how to respond… My patience was put to the ultimate test and I tried on a daily basis to find something I was thankful for and something that made me appreciate the people of this country. Ethiopia was also the ultimate test on people’s GI tracts as nearly every rider was stricken down at some point in the last three weeks with some form of stomach flu. Mine was particularly bad and took me out of riding for two days.

Ethiopia is definitely one of the most beautiful places I have ever been, rolling hills (mountains) and lush vegetation. Even on the worst day of biking all that was necessary was to look off to either side of the road, past the children and locals and an amazing viewpoint was always there to change the mood of the day. Today an Ethiopian runner ran along side my bike for around 20km, at one point I clocked him on my odometer as running 26km/hr. Amazing and humbling. The last few days have given us some serious climbing, with some hills looking like they were impossible to even fathom the possibility of getting your bike up, but it somehow seemed that every hill was eventually climbed and legs were tired later on. Over the 23 days we have had thousands of meters of climbing on our bikes. Some days felt like we were spinning our legs over and over again, going nowhere, but after enough effort and time we would eventually arrive at our destination, set up our tents, eat some food and go back to bed awaiting another day of the same.

My favorite things about Ethiopia have been the amazing triple, and quadruple layered juices. The copious amounts of livestock everywhere, in the road, in the fields, in the yards. Also the fact that I can now very accurately judge the speed of both cattle and goats so I don't hit them while biking by.