Blue Nile Gorge

It would be hard to find somewhere in the world that is more stunning or spectacular than the Blue Nile Gorge in Ethiopia. This has been a long awaited riding day by most riders non the tour. We had a 49km ride to the edge of the Gorge, which was only recently (THANK YOU JAPAN!!) paved as of 2008. My hats go off to all the past tour riders that under took this ascent and descent on the unpaved roads of years past, as even the pavement challenged us. As we rolled over the edge, the views were incredible. It was a hairy 20km descent with children armed with rocks and “YOU YOU’s” and cattle and donkeys alike. Large trucks slowly chugging up the hill spewed their hot exhaust against already hot cycling bodies. The temperature was a dripping 39C. I needed to stop several times on the descent to give my hands a break from holding onto my break levers with all my might. Actually as we approached the bottom and the heavily armed bridge over the Blue Nile, I was thankful to begin the 22km ascent out of the gorge, just to give my upper body a break. I never thought I would say this, but I enjoyed the uphill more than the downhill on this section. The climb seemed endless as some of the riders chose to do the time trial up the other side. I opted out of this time trial, instead trying to take in the beauty of the day and the ride. I also think it would have been hard to push myself harder than I already was, as the altitude has been greatly affecting my speed on this section of the ride. I have been coming last or near to last of the riders that have not been on the trucks this last week. There are still several riders that are still suffering greatly with The “Ethiopian flu” ( diarrhea and vomiting), with several riders “bunny hopping” (as it has been termed) ahead to our next rest day in Addis Ababa several days ahead of our arrival there. Several other riders have opted to have a field trip (days off of riding) to Lalibela (a famous historical site here in Ethiopia). I either have been blessed with the immune system of an ox, or I am just taking my unluckiness with flat tires rather than sick guts. I think I would take the later based on the state of some of the riders.

Our stone throwing Ethiopian spectators continue to plague us. With one rider being stuck in the helmet, breaking her helmet and another rider receiving the first stone throwing stitches in his arm, riders are becoming more and more on the ready for our stone throwing spectators as we bike along. Yesterday I was actually punched very hard in the back while riding and another “sweet looking 10 year old girl, grabbed my butt while I was riding and I had to hit her to get her off… I guess you could say I may have been riding too slowly for these things to occur to me, which may be the truth but it is hard to go faster up these crazy hills. One rider was attacked with sticks and rocks while riding through several hundred school children on their way home from school yesterday! I was thinking how much energy it takes both physically and mentally to ride through Africa. I can only compare it to being in a parade, from the time you wake up in the morning until you arrive in camp. The problem is that you are in the parade whether you want to be or not and the spectators can be supportive and kind or angry and aggressive and at all times you need to be prepared to react to either. Instead of candy being thrown in this parade, it is rocks, from gravel size to rocks that you watch the children carry to the side of the road that are so big they can hardly manage them. It can be mentally exhausting. It seems the afternoons are harder than the mornings as the hundredth child comes screaming “you you you you you you” following you up a hill- sometimes walking faster than you can ride. Our local rider from Ethiopia had several spokes broken on his bike by the rock wielding children, so he went to the school and reported them so that they will be punished in front of others. Hopefully they begin to learn the consequences of their actions. Ahhhhh Ethiopia- what a joy! It is unfortunate because the country is stunning and the people generally amazing and hard workers. I have taken to noting the speed at which some of these children can run along side the bikes going uphill. I watch my odometer on my bike and have continuously noted children running along side the bike uphill for a serious length of time going 18km/hr, BAREFOOT! It is not surprising some of the best runners in the world come from this country.

Arriving at the top of the gorge today at 89km was a very satisfying feeling of accomplishment. It was like my climb of the Malahat highway on the island, only 1500m higher!!! I think it would have done me good to ride that a few more times before arriving, but it will seem like a breeze after today when I get home. For a number of riders, this was the most climbing they had ever done in one day. The views and breathtaking scenery and looks on the faces of the drivers passing us made every second worth it. I rode with Georgie and Mark (our sectional riders from the UK). Mark took the opportunity on the descent to propose to Georgie, despite vomiting all night and not feeling so well today. It was so great. It has been amazing to ride with Georgie and Mark this past week. They will be dear friends for years to come and I will be very sad to see them leave in Addis Ababa.

I decided today that everything is relative in difficulty. As I ride my bike up hill after hill after hill, women and men walk past piled high with hey and cow dung, or heavy clay pots of water. They plow the fields by hand and spend countless hours herding their cattle along side the scorching hot pavement roads. On one hill the other day a ten year old girl walked up the same hill I was riding carrying a full bag of cement on her head. The Ethiopian people are incredibly hard workers, it is very impressive and puts my life into perspective on a daily basis. What an amazing perspective of the world you can get from the saddle of a bicycle. I feel like I get to see the real Africa, far from the big cities and tourist areas. The everyday life that goes on. I am thankful everyday for this experience that I am fortunate enough to be having.